Súgandisey lighthouse over the harbour

Súgandisey is the flat-topped basalt island that shelters Stykkishólmur's harbour. A stone causeway runs out to it from the quay, then a wooden staircase climbs the cliff to a grass plateau with a small, square, bright red lighthouse at the far end. It takes five minutes from the car and it is the single best view on the Snæfellsnes peninsula that requires no walking boots.

Two frames live up here. The first is the lighthouse itself: red tower, green grass, and behind it the low green islands of Breiðafjörður scattered to the horizon — get low so the tower breaks the skyline, and keep the couple slightly off-centre so the bay stays open. The second is the reverse view, from the plateau edge back over the harbour: fishing boats, the causeway curving away, and the painted town climbing the slope behind.

The island faces north and west, so evening is its hour — the sun drops behind the islands and the harbour water usually goes still enough to double the boats. Winter reverses the appeal: a short day of low light, and on clear nights the aurora sits over the bay with the lighthouse as the anchor.

The staircase is open, exposed and wet-slippery in rain, and the plateau takes the wind straight off the fjord — dresses, veils and small children all need thinking about before you commit to going up. There is no railing along much of the cliff edge. Go before the morning ferry docks or after it sails, and you will usually have the top to yourselves.