The milk-blue water and the black bridge

The Blue Lagoon is a working geothermal spa built into the Illahraun lava field: mineral-rich water the colour of pale milk-blue, held in a basin of black rock, with steam drifting off it constantly. A low bridge crosses the widest part, and that bridge is the composition — figures on it, water and steam either side, dark lava beyond, and no other colour in the frame to argue with.

The light problem is steam. On cold, still days the whole lagoon vanishes into white, which is beautiful and murder for autofocus; on windy days the steam clears and you can see across the water. Early morning, before the first slots fill, gives you the widest empty stretches, and in winter the whole thing runs on artificial light after about four in the afternoon, which the blue water takes surprisingly well. The lagoon reads best under soft grey sky — hard sun turns the surface into glare.

Everything here depends on the operator, and none of it should be assumed. Entry is by pre-booked timed ticket and sells out; there are rules about where cameras and phones may be used, about gear at the water's edge, and about photography involving other guests; and a professional shoot needs to be arranged with the spa rather than simply turning up with a camera. Check all of it directly with the Blue Lagoon before planning a session, and check again close to the date.

Two more practical notes. The silica water is hard on hair and on equipment — hair conditioner before going in is standard advice, and a camera near that water wants a plan. And this is the Reykjanes peninsula, which has had volcanic activity and associated road and site closures in recent years: check the current status of the road and the site before you drive out.