The east-bank lip

From Road 864 — gravel, rough in places, and open only in summer — the eastern bank gets you nearer to the falls than anywhere else. The path runs out onto the rock beside the lip, where the whole river slides past and drops away, and the noise stops being a sound and becomes something you feel through the ground.

This is the raw version, and it photographs that way: dark wet basalt, grey water, and the couple small at the edge of an enormous thing. Shoot from further back than instinct suggests and let the emptiness around them work. The light is easiest in the evening, when the sun comes round to the west and lifts the spray.

The practical warnings are real. The rock is always wet, there is no railing at the closest points, and people have fallen here. Nobody needs to be near the edge for the photograph — the frame works better from back on the path anyway. Check road.is for Road 864 before setting out, allow extra time for the gravel, and think twice with a small rental car.